Deep in the heart of Dixie, tucked between hills and hollows, monsters tower over hidden valleys and forests, waiting for suitors.  Enter Arno Ilgner – slayer of beasts, tamer of minds.  Arno has pioneered new terrain through some of the steepest and most difficult rock in the East.  With his first free ascents of most of the routes on Whitesides’ infamous 800′ overhanging headwall, and of Looking Glass’ aesthetic Glass Menagerie, one is left wondering who taught who – Arno or Yoda?

With his upcoming Warriors Way Clinic at Vertical Ventures on September 9th @5pm, we figured we’d catch up with Arno and ask him a few questions.

InnerView #2…

1.  Where are you from, how did you get into climbing and how long have you been climbing?
I was born in NY, but my parents quickly moved south to Tennessee. Too cold up north. I grew up and was introduced to climbing in middle Tennessee. Started climbing in 1973 and have loved it from the first time I tied in. I got into climbing because I failed at music. I didn’t make all-state tryouts and was disillusioned. But, I was then ripe for something new. Enter climbing.

2.  One word question – Tubesocks?
Never wore those things, but I did wear lycra. That was cool stuff but looking back on it today doesn’t look so cool. I remind young climbers today that they may be doing something they will look back on with the same “not so cool” perspective. Shall I mention tatoos or piercings?

click to read the rest: Read the rest of this entry »

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Our buddy Derek Thatcher of New Zealand has produced a short vid featuring some great looking lines at the MEGA bouldering destination Castle Hill.  Derek was also around for the making of this video of Christian Tartaglia on The Shield.

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Planned your Fall climbing trips yet? The beautiful fall weather is fast approaching and soon we must get out of Florida and climb rocks.  To help get you psyched, we bring you the first installment of Camp 4 Collective’s FREE RANGE TURKEY dispatches. Emily Harrington, Sam Elias, Daniel Woods, Yuji Hiriyama, Eneko Pou, James Person and Renan Ozturk headed out to Antalaya in southern Turkey for a filmed climbing adventure.

Stay tuned for the rest of the series!

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Fitz has put out many great tracks thus far between his authoring of The Dirtbag Diaries, The Season and Tracing the Edge.  Today, he gives us some of the best cuts, straight to our domes.  All of the tracks are available for free download at dirtbagdiaries.com.  Make sure to check out Fitz’s latest project – Tracing the Edge – on Patagonia’s Website.

The Dirtbag’s Playlist Vol 5

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With so many caption entries, it was hard to pick just one.  Perverts aside, there were quite a few clever quotes.  In the name of full disclosure, before we announce the winner, we must tell you that the 2 tickets to Kauai were stolen out of our safe by a late night cat burglar/safe cracker.  Oh well, you’ll just have to live with $50 of Vertical Ventures credit.

"Looks like Johnny got himself stuck between a rock and a hard place."

Our favorite:

“Looks like Johnny got himself stuck between a rock and a hard place.”  -Stephanie Lallement

Congratulations Stephanie, check’s in the mail!

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“There aren’t so many real cowboys left in America, just a lot of folks who dress like them,” writes Brendan Leonard. Maybe the cowboy is gone, but the tradition of going West to reinvent oneself has remained a part of our culture.  Where does that desire come from? Is it a part the American Psyche?  In Brendan’s case, it came from his father’s passion for the West.  In small town Iowa, the only way Brendan and his dad, Joe, could foster the dream of red rock and sage was by watching westerns. Lots of westerns. Today, Brendan presents a story about mountain people and the dreams parents instill in their children.  Go West.

The Dirtbag Diaries – Go West

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This ridiculous photo recently came across our desk.  We didn’t know what to say, but we were hoping you might.  Caption this photo in 20 words or less and our favorite will WIN TWO FREE ROUND-TRIP TICKETS TO KAUAI.* Winner will be announced  on August 10th.

Leave your caption as a comment.

*Offer good while supplies last.  If we run out of tickets you’ll win $50 of Vertical Ventures Credit instead.

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